The following is the long and short of planting in the tough local soil found in Central Virginia.
The Short:
The Long:
For successful planting, a deep understanding of the short list above will assure maximum results, reduce transplant shock, allow for faster rooting and faster growth, promote resistance to problems such as insects, disease and drought, and encourage more blooms.
Our local soil is composed of mostly compacted clay. In order for roots to spread quickly, the soil must be loosened around the immature young plant. Dig the hole 3 times the width of the container. A 3-gallon plant should have a 24” to 30” wide hole, allowing for fast root development and for moisture and nutrients to reach the plant.
Because the soil is so dense and compacted, roots on most plants can not go deep into the soil. The moisture, air and nutrients are near the surface where the roots grow. Digging too deep is the most common mistake made. When the hole is too deep, the plant is buried or sinks, settling too deep and going into transplant shock. The hole should be only as deep as the container.
While our soil is tough and compacted, it does retain moisture very well once saturated. A hole dug into clay and filled with water will take a long time to drain. Also, clay will remain moist for a long period even in our warm summer temperature.
Dig the proper hole, removing all the soil and placing it around the sides of the hole. Mix in the Compost. Place the plant into the empty hole, making sure it is not too deep. Place the garden hose into the hole and fill it with water. After the hole is full and the root ball is totally saturated, back-fill the hole with the amended native soil. The water will activate the amended ingredients, saturate the soil, and reduce transplant shock. Watering from the top will never be better than watering from the bottom.
Do not plant the root ball too deep. The root ball should be at least a couple of inches above the existing grade or soil line. (Large trees are often planted 4” to 6” above grade). Do not put soil on top of the root ball and, do not put it into a “volcano-looking” hole. The poor drainage of our soil will suffocate a plant placed too deeply. Plants such as azaleas, dogwoods, magnolias, gardenias, and others will perform poorly if planted too deeply.
The Short:
- The hole needs to be broad, 2 to 3 times the diameter of the pot.
- The hole should be shallow and only as deep as the pot.
- A compost blended soil and a soil loosener (ie clay cutter) should be added to the native soil to lighten the soil, allowing air and moisture penetration.
- Water should be added while back-filling the hole.
- The root ball should be planted high (a couple of inches above grade for small pots, higher for larger ones).
- The planting should be covered with 3” mulch for moisture retention.
The Long:
For successful planting, a deep understanding of the short list above will assure maximum results, reduce transplant shock, allow for faster rooting and faster growth, promote resistance to problems such as insects, disease and drought, and encourage more blooms.
Our local soil is composed of mostly compacted clay. In order for roots to spread quickly, the soil must be loosened around the immature young plant. Dig the hole 3 times the width of the container. A 3-gallon plant should have a 24” to 30” wide hole, allowing for fast root development and for moisture and nutrients to reach the plant.
Because the soil is so dense and compacted, roots on most plants can not go deep into the soil. The moisture, air and nutrients are near the surface where the roots grow. Digging too deep is the most common mistake made. When the hole is too deep, the plant is buried or sinks, settling too deep and going into transplant shock. The hole should be only as deep as the container.
While our soil is tough and compacted, it does retain moisture very well once saturated. A hole dug into clay and filled with water will take a long time to drain. Also, clay will remain moist for a long period even in our warm summer temperature.
Dig the proper hole, removing all the soil and placing it around the sides of the hole. Mix in the Compost. Place the plant into the empty hole, making sure it is not too deep. Place the garden hose into the hole and fill it with water. After the hole is full and the root ball is totally saturated, back-fill the hole with the amended native soil. The water will activate the amended ingredients, saturate the soil, and reduce transplant shock. Watering from the top will never be better than watering from the bottom.
Do not plant the root ball too deep. The root ball should be at least a couple of inches above the existing grade or soil line. (Large trees are often planted 4” to 6” above grade). Do not put soil on top of the root ball and, do not put it into a “volcano-looking” hole. The poor drainage of our soil will suffocate a plant placed too deeply. Plants such as azaleas, dogwoods, magnolias, gardenias, and others will perform poorly if planted too deeply.
